The History of Leather Craftsmanship in India: A Tradition 5,000 Years in the Making

India's relationship with leather is ancient, deep, and remarkably underappreciated. From the Indus Valley civilisation to the Mughal courts to the artisan clusters of Kanpur and Dharavi today, leather craftsmanship is woven into the subcontinent's material history in ways most people have never been told. This is that story.

The Ancient Origins: Leather in the Indus Valley

Archaeological evidence from Mohenjo-daro and Harappa — dating back to approximately 2500 BCE — includes leather artefacts and tools used in hide processing. The Indus Valley civilisation was among the earliest known cultures to develop organised tanning and leather-working as a craft. Leather was used for footwear, water vessels, armour, and strapping for tools.

The Vedic Period: Leather in Sacred and Practical Life

References to leather appear throughout the Vedic texts. Leather was used for quivers, sandals (padukas), drums, and water containers. The concept of dharma included specific caste-based occupations related to leather working, which both elevated the craft's importance and created the social structures that would shape the industry for millennia.

The Medieval Period: Mughal Influence on Indian Leather

The Mughal period (16th–18th centuries) had an enormous influence on Indian leather craftsmanship. The Mughal courts demanded high-quality leather goods — elaborately embroidered juttis, leather-bound manuscripts, decorative saddles, and armour. Artisans from Persia and Central Asia brought new techniques, including intricate tooling and embossing, that merged with existing Indian traditions.

Cities like Agra and Lucknow became major leather-working centres during this period — a legacy that continues today. Agra remains one of India's most important centres for leather footwear and goods.

Colonial Period: British Industry Meets Indian Craft

The British colonial period brought industrialisation to Indian leather production. Tanneries were established in Kanpur (then Cawnpore) from the mid-19th century to supply leather for British military equipment. Kanpur became the industrial heart of Indian leather production, a position it still holds today as one of the largest leather-producing cities in Asia.

This period created a dual legacy: large-scale industrial production alongside the continued survival of artisan craft communities that maintained traditional hand techniques.

Post-Independence: The Rise of Indian Leather Exports

After 1947, the Indian leather industry grew rapidly as an export sector. Today, India is the second-largest global producer of leather and the second-largest exporter of leather goods, with an industry valued at over $16 billion. The primary export hubs are Tamil Nadu (Chennai), Uttar Pradesh (Kanpur, Agra), West Bengal (Kolkata), and Maharashtra (Mumbai/Dharavi).

Traditional Craft Clusters Still Alive Today

• Kolhapuri chappals (Maharashtra/Karnataka): Handcrafted vegetable-tanned leather sandals with a tradition stretching back centuries. GI-tagged since 2019.
• Mojdi/Jutis (Rajasthan, Punjab): Elaborately embroidered leather footwear made by artisan communities with techniques unchanged for generations.
• Dharavi leather district (Mumbai): One of the largest leather-working clusters in Asia, employing tens of thousands of artisans in the heart of Mumbai.
• Kanpur tanneries: The industrial backbone of India's leather sector, producing hides for domestic and export markets.

The Modern Indian Leather Brand Story

The past decade has seen a new generation of Indian leather brands emerge — brands that combine traditional craft knowledge with contemporary design and ethical production. This is the tradition that Jaald is part of: handcrafted leather goods made in India, using full-grain vegetable-tanned leather, by craftspeople whose skills are part of this 5,000-year continuum.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which city in India is most famous for leather?

Kanpur (Uttar Pradesh) is India's largest leather-producing city and one of the largest in Asia. Agra is known for finished leather goods and footwear. Chennai (Tamil Nadu) is the largest hub for leather exports.

What is India's rank in global leather production?

India is the second-largest producer of leather globally and the second-largest exporter of leather goods, behind China.

What are Kolhapuri chappals?

Kolhapuri chappals are traditional vegetable-tanned leather sandals handcrafted in Kolhapur (Maharashtra) and Belgaum (Karnataka). They have a Geographical Indication (GI) tag recognising their heritage and origin.